November 24, 2015:
Chef Marc Vetri is the founder of Philadelphia’s critically acclaimed Vetri Family of Restaurants. A Philadelphia native, Vetri spent his formative professional kitchen life in Bergamo, Italy, working alongside some of the region’s most noted chefs. In 1998, he opened the fine-dining restaurant, Vetri, to universal acclaim. Within two years of the restaurant’s debut, he was named one of Food & Wine’s “Best New Chefs” and received the Philadelphia Inquirer’s highest restaurant rating. In 2005, he was given the James Beard Award for “Best Chef Mid-Atlantic.”
Italian Tonda Padana squash is about the size of a basketball and weighs close to 8 pounds. It’s pretty high in starch and low in water, so it’s great for gnocchi. If you can’t find Tonda Padana squash, use kabocha squash instead.
Marc Vetri’s Squash Gnocchi with Brown Butter & Crispy Sage (Makes 4 to 6 servings)
Ingredients:
- 1/2 Tonda Padana squash
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 whole eggs
- 2 egg yolks
- 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1/2 cup almond flour (plus some for dusting)
- 1/4 cup finely crushed amaretti cookies or almond macaroons
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
- 8 to 12 fresh sage leaves
- 3/4 cup grated bagoss, Bitto, Parmesan cheese
Instructions:
- To make the squash easier to peel, jab the squash all over with a knife (to allow steam to escape), and then microwave it on high power until the skin softens, about 2 minutes. Peel the squash with a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Scoop out and discard the seeds and strings, then cut the flesh into 1″ to 2″ chunks.
- Put the squash in a heavy pot and add water to a depth of 1/4″. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter and simmer, covered, until the squash is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Mash the squash in the pan (or puree it with a handheld blender or in a food processor), and then continue cooking the squash, stirring often to prevent burning, until much of the water evaporates and the puree reduces in volume, about 1 hour. When it’s done, the squash should be the consistency of a loose dough and thick enough to cling to an upended spoon.
- Measure out 1 1/2 cups of the puree and reserve the rest for another use. Transfer the puree to a bowl, let cool slightly, then add the whole eggs, egg yolks, Parmesan, almond flour, cookie crumbs, salt and nutmeg, and mix with a spoon until the dough comes together (it will be loose). Spoon the dough into a zip-lock bag, seal closed and refrigerate it until it is somewhat firm, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
- Snip the corner from the bag and pipe 1″ dollops of the dough into a bowl of almond flour or all-purpose flour. Scoop up a dollop with floured hands, roll it into a ball, and then place it on a flour rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough. You should have 50 to 60 gnocchi.
- Use the gnocchi immediately or cover them loosely and refrigerate them for a few hours. You can also freeze them in a single layer, transfer them to a zip-lock bag, and freeze them for up to 2 weeks. Take the gnocchi straight from the freezer to the boiling water, adding about 30 seconds to the cooking time.
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the gnocchi and cover the pot to quickly return the water to a low boil. Cook the gnocchi until springy to the touch and tender throughout, 3 to 5 minutes. Squeeze a dumpling between your fingers. It should have some bounce back. If it just flattens, the gnocchi are not done yet.
- Meanwhile, melt the remaining 1/2 cup butter and sage together over medium heat in a small sautee pan until the butter turns golden brown and the sage is crisp, about 7 minutes.
- Using a spider strainer, transfer the gnocchi to warmed plates, allowing 10 – 12 gnocchi per serving. Spooning the brown butter over the gnocchi and sprinkle with the cheese. Garnish with the crispy sage.
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